Treads, a tipless gloves pattern

My first self-designed knit is a pair of tipless gloves:  Treads.

treads3
treads9treads6
 

The star of these gloves, is the linen ridge stitch. The way it is incorporated resembles the textured patterns on the treads of tires, and so that’s how these lovelies got their name.

I am eager to see how this pattern could look with variegated yarns such as Malabrigo, or with the linen-ridge portions done in a separate colour of yarn from the rest of the glove. I also think this pattern could lend itself to other types of gloves/mitts, from full fingered to fingerless.

I thought I’d share my pattern here, in case any other knitters want to give some Treads a go. 

I am new to pattern writing, so please forgive me if there is anything lacking.  Please either comment here or message me through Ravelry with any questions, thoughts, or suggestions.  If you do give this pattern a shot, I hope you will enjoy knitting them, and I hope you’ll share your photos and experiences with me.

For those on Ravelry, details on my pair of Treads and a link to the Ravlery pattern download can be found here.

Cheers and Happy Knitting,
Victoria

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99 thoughts on “Treads, a tipless gloves pattern

  1. Lovely – thanks so much for giving us this pattern. I do believe I will be making several pairs of these for next Christmas giving. You are right about the vikkel braid – lots of fun to do and so pretty.

    • Thank you so much Emm,

      I’m so touched that you would even consider knitting several pairs of these gloves for gifts. Thank you. The vikkel braid is my new favorite thing and I am imagining all the ways I could use it in future. 🙂

      -Victoria

  2. Hi your gloves look great and I would like to try them. I’m having trouble with the ply of the wool . I need an 8 ply pattern and not sure if this is, if not have you any patterns like this for 8 ply wool. I would be grateful if you can help me. thanks . Yours sincerely Ronnie.

    • Hi Ronnie,

      While the pattern wasn’t written for 8 ply I think it will be easy to adapt the pattern for your yarn’s weight.

      You may need to go up a needle size, and it might come out less dense, which might be preferable anyways. I’d try swatching with your yarn and see if you get close to the gauge in the pattern. if you are getting too many stitches per inch, then either needle up or add more stitches to the pattern. As long as you use an even number, you will be fine.

      I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes and if I can answer any further questions. 🙂

      -Victoria

  3. Hi Victoria!

    Thanks for sharing the pattern. I will make these for sure. Gloves are my favorit knitting item and the pattern on these is just great.

    The lateral braids knit up great, I am very happy with that idea.
    What I could not figure out is the linen ridge stitch. Whatever yarn I took, however small or big my needles were… it just did not look this way.

    I am working in the round, so I purl one round, next round I slip one purlwise with the yarn in the back, then purl one (through the front loop as usuall, right?)

    Is there a secret to the stitch? Am I missing something?

    I would be glad if you could help me on. Also some more people at knittinghelp.com discuss the pattern, so you would help a few people at once 😉

    Thanks for taking the time!
    Frauke

    • Hello Frauke,

      I am happy to help in any way I can. I’ll also email this reply to you, just to be sure you get this.

      So for doing the linen ridge stitch in the round correctly, there is one prerequisite — you must have an even number of stitches. So how many stitches do you have? Make sure it’s divisible by 2!

      If your number is an even number, then that is good, and we can move on.

      You seem to understand the linen ridge stitch direction correctly. I’ll recap: After the first row, which is all purl, then the second row is the two stiches (slip 1 wyib, p1) repeated over and over until the row is complete. Then the next row after that is all purling again. And then for the fourth row, you simply reverse the order of the two stitches from the second row, so this time you begin with p1 and then slip 1 with yarn in back. and again and again: p1, slip 1 with yarn in back, and so on.’ If you have an even number of stitches, then the stitches you slip this row should be 2 rows below the stitches you purled in the second row.

      How many rows of linen ridge stitch have you knit so far? One of my coworkers had the same concern when she had only done the first two or three rows of the linen ridge stitch pattern. She thought she must be doing something wrong. But after finishing the full amount of rows (11 rows in total), the pattern came alive. So maybe all you need to do is knit some more rows! Just have faith, do the specified number of repeats and see for yourself. 🙂 Best of luck. please let me know how it goes!

      Cheers,
      Victoria

      • I have completed all 11 rows of the linen ridge pattern and it just looks like purl. There is no pattern at all. I have worked exactly according to your pattern, correct number of stitches too. What am I doing wrong?

        • Hi Sharon,
          I received your message on Ravelry as well. So I am duplicating what I wrote there, here for you as well.

          Please forgive me, I have recently had a baby and I am sleep-deprived, but I hope I can still help.

          This is a question I’ve had before, so I have copied and pasted my reply below. I hope it helps!
          Best wishes,
          Victoria

          You are not the only one who has had problems with the linen ridge not popping out. It seems to be one of those diva-esque type of stitches.

          First I want to make sure you have the technique down…
          1.
          For doing the linen ridge stitch **in the round** correctly, there is one prerequisite — you must have an even number of stitches. Sooooo … how many stitches do you have? If your number is an even number, then that is good, and we can move on.

          2.
          You seem to understand the linen ridge stitch direction. Yarn in back, slip as to purl. Then the line of yarn will wrap at the back around that stitch you just slipped as you bring it around to the front to purl the next stitch. and then that again over and over.. Is that what you are doing? If so, good, move on.

          3.
          Next make sure your fourth row differs from your second row. If you have an even number of stitches, then the stitches you slip this row should be 2 rows below the stitches you purled in the second row.

          4.
          Okay, if you got this far, your technique must be perfection… How many rows of linen ridge stitch have you knit so far? One of my coworkers had the same concern when she had only done the first two or three rows of the linen ridge stitch pattern. She thought she must be doing something wrong. But after finishing the full amount of rows (11 rows in total), the pattern came to life. So, if you are willing, just have faith, do the specified number of repeats and see for yourself.

          5.
          If tecnique and faith are not the issues, then finally, and sadly, some people have found the type of yarn they use determines whether the linen ridge pops, for example, some variegated yarns don’t seem to work as effectively. If you look through the projects page for Treads, you’ll see what I mean.

          I hope I have helped somehow with this long-winded reply and that your treads will pop up soon. Let me know if there’s something I could better explain.

          Happy Knitting!
          Victoria

  4. Hi Victoria,
    Thanks so much for sharing this pattern. I immediately wanted to try it out. The Lateral Braid and Linen Ridge Stitch are both new to me but looked so cool that I just had to try. Your directions were perfect! I was shocked and amazed when I was able to create the Lateral Braid…..so easy and so cool! At midnight I had to stop (I got a very late start) Will try the LRS tonight!
    Thanks for sharing – definately gift worthy!
    Laurie

  5. Hi, Victoria,
    I have been searching for ‘the perfect’ fingerless/tipless glove pattern and I am anxious to get started on these. I work in a tire wholesale warehouse and how perfect will these gloves be for me??!! I may try them with sock yarn(since I have tons of it). Should I double the yarn to achieve the gauge? I will play with it some and see what I come up with. I will look you up on Rav, too. Thanks for sharing this pattern!

    Michelle

    • Hi Michelle,

      If you have fingering weight sock yarn that you want to use for your treads, I think you could make it work, but I can’t stress enough how important it will be for you to do a test swatch to check your gauge for both number of stitches and number of rows.

      If you want a warm glove, a fully textured glove, definitely double the sock yarn, you should get pretty close to gauge, but don’t forget to test first! You can always add a few stitches to get the right gauge. If you don’t mind a thin glove, then you could leave it single, but you will most definitely have to increase your number of stitches and rows (just remember to keep your cast on stitches an even number).

      I hope this helps. Good luck, I look forward to seeing your gloves on Ravelry!

      Victoria

  6. I seem to get all the hard stuff, like lateral braid and linen ridge stitch, but don’t have a clue what a fourchette stitch is. Can anyone help?

    • Hi Olive, You are not alone. Robin asked me the same question regarding fourchettes on my “about” page. Here was my reply:
      “I’m sorry you’ve been struggling. I think the mere name of the “fourchette” makes it sound complicated, but it’s actually quite simply an increase using the “single cast-on” using the working yarn. A great video of the single cast on, can be found here at knittinghelp.com, a fantastic site that you may already be familiar with. It’s the second video down on the cast on page. So really fourchettes are just simple loops, so be sure to knit them tightly on the next round. I hope this helps.”
      -Victoria

  7. Hi

    I seem to be having the same trouble as Frauke above. I read your reply and will try to have faith and complete more rows before worrying about it.

    I am knitting a pair for my friend in a green camoflauge yarn. I’ll try to upload a pic to ravellry when I’m done. (laurknit).

    Thanks for sharing the pattern.
    Laureen

    • Hello Laureen,

      I’m sorry you’re having the same trouble. I will look for your project photo on Ravelry. I hope that a couple more rows will bring it out for you.

      Cheers,
      Victoria

  8. For some reason, when I am doing the braid, it is only turning out on the INSIDE of the glove! I have read and re read the instructions but can not figure out why this is happening! Do you know??
    Also, how can I undo the braid? I think I’ll need to undo it (since it is on the inside instead of the outside!). Is there a way to knit backwards?

    I love the pattern – it is beautiful!
    Rachel

    • Hi Rachel,

      The lateral braid is definitely the most diffficult part of my pattern to get the hang of. You are not the only one who has ended up with the braid on the inside. not at all.

      In most of the instances, the reason their braids end up on the inside is because those knitters are not returning the yarn to the back of the work to knit into the back of the 2nd stitch.

      So my instruction in the pattern reads as follows:

      Knit into the back of the 2nd st (the one to the left of the newly made st), and then knit into the front of the first st. Slip both these first and second sts off the lh needle

      Someone who was having the same problem as you, but figured it out suggested I reword this so that it will read:

      “take working needle to back of work and knit the second stitch in the back, then knit first stitch as normal and slide both off the needle.”

      I haven’t had a chance to update my pattern with this amendment, but perhaps it will help you?

      If not, I always find pictures or videos are the most useful way to learn new techniques. Here are fantastic resources on knitting a lateral (aka vikkel) braid.

      Picture tutorial: http://dailyskein.wordpress.com/2008/08/23/vikkel-braid/
      Video (in german, no english available right now, but seeing it done can be helpful):


      Please let me know how it goes. I would love to learn that you got the hang of it, and how, and if there is a better way for me to explain this technique. Don’t give up, it’s so rewarding when you do get it!

      Cheers,

      Victoria

  9. Hi,

    I love your pattern and my project is coming along pretty well but I’m having trouble making the ends of the braid meet up. The braid itself is no problem but at the end of the row it ends up uneven and spoils the look of the thing. What am I doing wrong? Is it not supposed to match up at the end?

    • Hi Kelly!

      Aha, this is good. and I can’t believe it’s the first time someone has asked me this. I will have to add it to my pattern. Something that I do is I end the braid row by knitting into the first stitch of the next round, one row below, and knit the one above with it, as a k2tog. it should straighten that out. Let me know how it goes.

      Victoria

  10. Thank you for sharing this beautiful pattern. I am having trouble with the fourchette sts, have gone on line to see if there is any instructions and to no avail.
    I understand how to divide the number of stitches among the needles, and waste yarn, but it is not clear to me how to pick up stitches in the middle of the round with a third needle with no yarn available.

    • Hi Laura,

      A fourchette is the same as a single cast on in the middle of your stitches, it’s also called a backward loop cast on. For a very simple video have a look here:

      http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/cast-on

      and go down to the “single loop cast on” video.

      Because it’s just a simple loop, it’s important to knit them tightly in the next round.

      I hope this helps. Best of luck!

      -Victoria

  11. Hi,

    i’m having the same problem with aligning the start and end of the lateral braid

    i just can’t get my head round it lol

    do you think you could post a picture of how the join should look?

    or explain it

    thanks alot

    p.s

    i love this pattern to bits

    • Hi Alisha,

      I’m sorry I don’t really have a lot of time right now, and I don’t have a ready unfinished mitt to demonstrate on. So all I can offer are words and links.

      Just to reiterate.
      The problem: when you get to the end of the braid, it appears higher up at the end then at the beginning.

      The possible solution(s): Some people just shrug and let it go. Some just carry on, then come back later when the knitting is complete, and they do a little pulling or even pinning/blocking to get it to look more even at the join.

      But I like to make things difficult for myself. So here’s what I did: When I came to the end of the lateral braid round, I …

      1. slipped the first st of the next round back on the rh needle,

      2. and then rather than passing the last stitch of the round over it to complete the braid, I first picked up a loop from the row below the first stitch.

      3. I slipped this picked up stitch on to the rh needle to work in tandem with the first stitch that I had already slipped there. Think of this picked up stitch and the first stitch of the round (now slipped on to the rh needle) as bonded together.

      4. and then using my left needle, I passed what was the last st of the round (now the third one on the right hand needle) over both of the first stitch and this newly picked up stitch, just as you would do a bind off, up and over.

      3. Then I slipped the two tandem stitches back on to the left needle (they are the start of the new round)

      4. But to start the next round, you have this one extra “tandem” stitch that you picked up and it has to be eliminated. So I then knit those two tandem stitches together, and then knit on as in the pattern.

      This is simply a trick, a way of bringing up the start of the braid to the level of the end of the braid. It’s based on a method used in jogless colour striping, explained with a photo-tutorial here: http://www.socknitters.com/kickback/joglessjog.htm
      I’m sorry, I know words can be wordy, and pictures much more useful, but I hope this will be of some help to you.
      -Victoria

  12. Hi Victoria, I saw these and apperciate you sharing the pattern. I am fairly new at knitting and have a couple of questions for you. First, I see you said size 5 dpn or ones to obtain the gauge. Is that just two dpn’s or a set of 4 or 5 to clarify. Second is that my husband who I wish to make them for has rumethoird arthritis and the swell causes his hands to swell to extra large I know that I need to adjust by two stitches so would I then need to cast on say 44 sts. and how do I adjust the fingertips? I thought of just using a larger set of needles starting with a size 6 thinking that might work without changing the pattern since they would produce larger sts. Any thoughts?

    Pat

    • Hi Patricia

      1. Definitely a set of 4 dpn’s (or 5 if you wish) is what I intended there. 🙂 knitting in the round requires this very desperately.

      2, Both of your ideas to increase size will work. As long as the stitches are in an even number to accomodate the tread like pattern. Some men’s sizes would even need a larger increase… say 48. You may have to play with this to get it right. When you come to the fingers, you will have to then divide the stitches differently than directed. For example if you have 44 stitches, rather than 20 back, 20 front, it would be 22 front, 22 back. That means that you have 2 stitches on either side to add to one or more of the fingers. Look at your husband’s fingers and decide where he has extra thickness –probably the index and middle finger? if you’ve increased even further you’d be able to divide an extra sttich to all fingers, so that’s why I suggested 48 above. Hope this makes sense. You can always add even more fourchette stitches at this time too to accomodate bigger fingers.

      Increasing to size 6 will also increase the size of the gloves. I suggest you knit a small swatch and make sure you like the feel of the fabric it creates first. Depending on your yarn, the stitches will be a bit more stretched out, a little more airy than with the smaller dpn’s. But that might be just what you want for your husband’s hands!

      I hope this has helped. Good luck, please let me know how it goes.

      Victoria

      • Thank you Victoria, I will surely keep it all in mind as I work on the gloves. I really like the look and wanted him to have something he liked and out of all the ones I printed out he picked your pattern which in turn is also my favorite. Thanks again.

        Pat

  13. Hello oftherain. First of all, I want to clarify that I’m an Spanish guy, so maybe, because of the language barrier, I don’t make myself clear, but I will try.

    Okay, I’m doing this lovely pattern but with one alteration, I’m knitting it on straight needles. You’d say “why?”… well, I’m doing a Secret Santa with some friends, and the total amount of money permitted is 10 euros, so I purchased the yarn and there was nothing left for circulars/dpns… and the ones I already have, I don’t have the size required…. (and being sincere, I dont have the money right now!)

    So, bearing this in mind, the problem is…

    I began like normal, “k1, p1 rib” so 1st row k1, p1, 2nd row p1, k1… Easy…

    Then, its knit 1 row (I modified this to purl 1 row after that to get the lateral braid on a RS row) and then the lateral braid. Okay, to this point, no problems at all…

    Then it is Purl 1 row (the pattern says Knit 1 row but the lateral braid left me on a WS row) and then the problem…

    It says for the Linen Ridge Stitch: Purl 1 row and in next row with yarn in back slip 1 and then purl 1 to the end…

    Okay, the lateral braid left me on a WS row, then I purled 1 row to make it look like knit stitches from the right side and ended on a RS row wich the patern calls to purl…

    I purl it then on the next row I apply another change which is “with yarn in front slip 1 and then knit 1 to the end…”

    Then purl and “knit 1 and with yarn in front slip 1”

    I guessed that changing the pattern this way, it would come out right, but… I think its not, because in your photos, I see a little crossed “parrilla” pattern, and on mine, i see the purl bumps, but not the X pattern….

    Am I wrong in my particular way of knitting it?, because I’ve done LOTS of dpns/circular knitting on flats because I didn’t have the right materials at hand and all of them have come out right!

    Thank you very much!

    Gyllenhaal

    • Hi Gyllenhaal,

      Wow. First of all, I understand what you are saying perfectly, so that is not a barrier. Your english is fantastic.

      But the whole language or rather notion of knitting something in the round on straights is quite another thing to try to comprehend. It’s brave of you, though.

      I think that you’re right that the area you are running into a problem is the linen ridge pattern of *sl1 with yarn if front, k1, and repeat from *. Because you need the yarn to slip in front on the side that will show. So, if you are adapting this to do it backwards, you will then have to change this stitch to a sl1 with yarn in the back, so that the yarn goes around the back of your knit stitch and makes a line over the slipped loop (showing that line on the side that counts) before your next knit stitch. I hope this makes sense and I hope this helps!

      Let me know how it goes and please send a picture. or if you have a ravelry account, send me a message through ravelry. i’d love to see the finished product.

      • I am really confused by all these comments. You said that the glove is not knit inside out, but the how is it that the you can have the yarn to slip in front on the side that will show? The pattern says to hold it behind all the rows on the thumb gusset are knot, not purled, so all stitches should be on the right side…..so how would the *(wyib sl1, P1) have the yarn in front?

        • Elizabeth, thank you. I have to say that this idea of changing a pattern from in the round to being knit flat, completely has my head all in a muddle. I understand what you are saying, and it looks like I have explained it wrong to Gyllenhaal. I am not able right now to get my head around how the heck one would make a linen ridge by knitting it on the opposite side. I can only think it would be best that you organized the flat knit so that the right side has rows 2 and 4 of the linen ridge stitch, as it is much easier to convert rows 1 and 3 from purls to knits for this type of adaption. Thanks again for pointing this out.
          -Victoria

  14. Hi Victoria,

    I love your pattern, I found it on ravelry. I am new to knitting (learned several years ago and decided to try again this winter). Thanks to your instructions and video suggestions, I have made it all the way to the fingers. I was stuck on how to make fourchette sts, but your reply to a previous post fixed that problem. However, I have a huge problem. I saw in a previous post that someone’s lateral braid was on the inside of the glove and so are all of mine and the knitting section near the thumb is also on the inside. I falsely assumed that I was supposed to turn the glove inside out when I finished.

    Did I knit the whole glove backwards? 😦
    I used four dpns, if that helps.

    • oh dear! The braid should be on the outside. there is no turning it inside out in the end. But if you like the way it looks as is, then no matter. You didn’t do the whole glove backwards, just the braid. and you are not alone. many have had battles with the braid. I hope this will not discourage you in your knitting. sometimes the most beauitful results come from mistakes. the lateral braid is a tricky thing, and I think it’s excellent that you tried it even though you are newish to knitting.

      • Thanks for the reply, I started a new glove and figured out the problems. I feel a lot more confident in my knitting now. Thankls for the new challenges that have now turned into skills. Will post pics on ravalry when I finish. 🙂

  15. Thanks for the reply, I was doing a swatch (so I was knitting flat) and I needed to test both stitch types (because sometimes my gauge changes with a different stitch). So to know it flat, I did sockinette : knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side. then to try the Linen ridge, I did row 1 Knit all (on the wrong side) Row 2 (wyib sl1, p1) no the right side….ect. But it did not look anything like what I see in your picture.. I was also hoping to know a scarf flat in the same stitches, so I wanted to know how to make this wok. Any suggestions?

    • Good morning Elizabeth,

      Okay after a good sleep, I think I’ve unmuddled myself. 😉
      My solution for Gyllenhaal was on the right track, but my reasoning was off when saying you needed to show the line on the side that shows. it’s the reverse.

      So here is how to obtain the Linen RIdge on flat knits:
      (you must have a multiple of 2 stitches)

      Row 1 (RS): Purl
      Row 2 (WS): k1, *wyif sl1, k1; rep from * to last st; end k1
      Row 3: Purl
      Row 4: k1, *k1, wyif sl1; rep from *, end k1
      Rep rows 1-4.

      I just did a swatch of this myself to verify. You need to do a good eight rows to see the pattern develop. and the type of yarn you use can determine how it pops. For example, silken wools and also flat colours seem to show it best. if you look on ravelry you can see examples of this in the projects thus far.

      Best of luck to you Elizabeth, and thanks for finding my error made earlier in the comments above to Gyllenhaal.

      -Victoria

      • oh incidentally, i also did a swatch like this successfully:

        Row 1 (WS): knit
        Row 2 (RS): *(wyib sl1, p1), repeat from *
        Row 3 (WS): knit
        Row 4: *(p1, wyib sl1), repeat from *

        Again the key here is to have an even number of stitches.
        and another point worth mentioning is the process involved in rows 2 and 4.
        Your yarn should be at the back when you slip the stitch, then you bring the yarn around the BACK of that just slipped stitch, before you then bring the yarn to the front to purl the next stitch.
        A line of yarn should be going over the slipped stitch, at the back.

  16. I just stumbled on this pattern. Wonderful job! I love Estonian knitting and techniques. I’ve actually visited Estonia twice in winter.:) Almost every piece of knitting had vikkel braids. The finished product looks very complex, but the techniques are quite simple. I hope you continue to create patterns.

    • Thank you very much for taking the time to write this, Alice. I really appreciate it. I hope to continue to make patterns as well. Work has been hogging my time, but I have ideas in my head that I hope to put to yarn one day soon. 🙂
      Best wishes,
      Victoria

  17. I don’t have any size 5 dpns, but I’m planning on buying some size 6 ones soon because I need them for two other projects. If I use size 6 needles for this projects, how much do you think that will affect the gauge? Will it make the gloves too long?

    • It might….Check the gauge with the size six needles, if it looks about right, go for it! If not try…If it is going to be to long, remove some rows, if it is to wide, the pattern just needs to be in a multiple of 4, so try removing 4 or 8 stitches from the pattern.

      I hope this helps!

    • Hi Camilla,
      For the most part, I would second was Elizabeth says. I would test out your yarn with the size 6 in stockinette and see what gauge you get. And also make sure you like the look of the fabric. If your gauge is close to 6 stitches/inch, then you won’t have to adjust much. But if it’s much looser, than decrease how many stitches you cast on. As long as you cast on an even number, it should work out. Good luck! –Victoria

      • Thank you! I will try it out and post pics on Ravelry when I (eventually) get around to making them! I love your pattern!

  18. Thank you so much for your effort and kindness. This is my favorite item right now. I’ve been doing fingerless and want to progress to full gloves. This is a lovely design.
    Have a blessed day

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  21. This is my first time making gloves/mittens and I had intended to knit something very basic to get the hang of it. but when I saw your pattern, I thought the gloves were beautiful and had to try. Directions are good, so I’ve had little problem there, and I found the braid much simpler than I had expected. that came out beautiful! My only problem has been the row after the braid. The stitches are really elongated, which is an interesting look, but I have not figured out how to tighten those stitches up so they are normal size knit stitches. Due to an accident as a child, I have limited dexterity in my left hand/fingers, and often have to adjust methods of holding, manipulating in order to accommodate. I’m not sure if the problem is due to being unable to grasp well or???
    Any suggestions?
    Thank you

    • Hi Chris,
      I would suggest switching to a smaller needle size for the row after. It is not just you, that rows does come out looser, but usually I just suggest tightening your stitch, however if you are physically unable to do it, maybe a smaller needle would help?
      Best of luck, Victoria
      I updated your entry to only reflect your name.

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  23. Hello Victoria,
    I found your stunning pattern for the Treads Gloves on New Stitch A Day today. Doubt I’ll be able to pull them off in time for Christmas, but I can give it a good try.
    That brings me to this point… THANK YOU so kindly for sharing your wonderful pattern. These gloves with the beautiful Linen Ridge Stitch are IMPOSSIBLE to resist… so much so that they could derail me from completing everything else on time. Ahhh, but what a way to go!
    Wishing you a Warm and Wonderful Christmas with your loved ones… and the Little Bun in the Oven. CONGRATULATIONS!
    MJ

  24. Wonderful pattern and combination of stitches! I did use a moderately variegated yarn, not too much so that the patterns would be obscured. But my linen stitch was also less stand-out-ish than the photos — I’m wondering if knitting/purling loosely is a key? We want the purl bumps to be as big as possible — I would think tighter knitters would make a flatter pattern.

    I also lost momentum at the “fourchette” reference (two new stitches per pattern must be my limit!!) but simply made plain fingerless mittens of them, ending with a ribbing after the lateral braid, similar to the cuff.

    Lovely looking pattern and ideas, thank you!

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  26. Thanks for the great pattern! Every year I knit something for my ten best Seniors (I am a substitute teacher at a small school). They are often the kids who work the hardest and really don’t get any recognition. Thanks again for your help!

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  28. Hoping this bumps up …Linen Stitch Question AGAIN (sorry). Is it slip 1 as if to PURL or KNIT with the yarn in back? I too am having trouble making the stitch pop out. If I hold my head funny and look at my knitting out of the corner of my eye so it doesn’t realize I’m checking it out I can sort of see the pretty design but when I focus…nope. Just purl.
    And yes I am too lazy to swatch both ways but maybe it will clarify for someone else.
    This is a BEAUTIFUL beautiful pattern and your knitting is to die for!!!!
    Tanya
    Yes ma’am I am doing a swatch both ways now. For grins. Quit nagging 🙂

    • hi Tanya. I think it depends on your style of knitting how you interpret the instructions … I knit English style. so when I slip the stitch the yarn stays in back… behind the stitches and then for the next purl I bring the yarn around that slipped stitch and back to the front to purl the next stitch. this will make a line at the back over the slipped stitch. hope this helps you. I admire your stick to it attitude!

      • Yeah I guess I took that movie Galaxy Quest too much to heart (Never give up, never surrender). I’m getting closer. I’m not a new knitter. Honest. I am now to the point that if I hold my knitting sideways I see the diamond pattern start to form. I believe it is my tension causing the problem ONWARD!

  29. Treads is a fun pattern. Thank you for sharing it! I just finished the first glove in variegated green with purple finger tips (as requested by my daughter). I saw somewhere that you would like to see this pattern done with a variegated yarn. How can I share a photo with you?
    Terry

  30. I have just knitted the first glove successfully! My linen ridge stitch doesn’t pop as much as yours, but I think that might be because I’m knitting on slightly smaller needles with slightly thicker yarn, and I’m quite a tight knitter as well. I have a different issue with this stitch – having finished the whole thing, I’ve noticed that the linen ridge bits are much baggier than the rest of the glove. I’m not sure why this would be?

  31. was looking for a fingerless glove (not mitten) for my sister for Christmas. She’s always cold, even indoors. Came across this pattern and can’t wait to start. Thanks, Pam S

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  33. I am doing your pattern right now. My linen stitch doesn’t look like yours. I double checked tutorials on doing the linen stitch, and made sure 3 times I was doing exactly what the pattern said. I wish I could post a picture on here.

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  35. Victoria, How do I change the Threads pattern to fit a hand 8 1/4 inches in circumference? I love this pattern and want to make it for my daughter but I am a novice knitter and do not know how to increase the size. Thanks.
    Marianne

    • Hi Marianne,

      I would suggest just increasing the number of stitches you cast on. So instead of 40, try casting on 46… math-wise that’s what should work out, but math doesn’t always win in these matters. your gauge (loose or tight), and your yarn (stretchy or stiff) will also determine how many stitches you will need. This is where swatching really does come in handy! whoops pun not intended. 😉

      When you increase the number of stitches in the pattern, you will have to adapt later in the pattern. When you come to the fingers, you will have to then divide the stitches differently than directed. For example if you have 46 stitches, rather than 20 back, 20 front, it will be 23 front, 23 back and that means that you will have 6 extra stitches to disperse among the fingers later.

      Hope this makes sense!
      Victoria

      • Thank you so very much. What a blessing this is to me. I love this pattern and am so glad to be able to make it for my daughter. Hope you are not a Whitecaps fan ‘cuz my version of your gloves are going to be in Sounders blue and green 😌

  36. Victoria, I’m confused. I downloaded your patters cos it was just what I was looking for. But when I get to the Thumb gussett it says knit to Marker, but it doesn’t tell me where to put the marker first. Obviously I’m missing something, please help!
    Thanks
    Merlyn

    • Hi Merlyn,
      Sorry for the confusion.

      In Row 1, the directions are k1, pm, k1, pm, k to end.

      pm = “Place Marker.” On the very first page of the pattern, I give a key for all the abbreviations like this I use. Hope this helps you!

  37. I almost never make the same pattern twice. But I love these gloves so much I am working on my 5th (I think, I’ve lost track!) pair now. I have made them with fingers and without. For myself, my brother… Wonderful pattern. Do you have others? I don’t see any on Ravelry.

    • Hello Jane,
      You are very kind. Thank you. I’m so glad you love the pattern. I haven’t published any other patterns. I have made my own designs since, but I’ve just been so busy between work and my little boy that I’ve found it difficult to make the time. One day I hope to. 🙂
      Thanks again,
      Victoria

    • I’m sorry no, I do not have any express instructions for child sizing. But I can make a few suggestions for a smaller handwidth. First of all, consider decreasing the cast on. As long as you cast on an even number of stitches in order to accommodate the tread pattern, it should work. It may take some trial and error to figure out the right width for your child’s hand. You could also use a thinner yarn, say DK or sport, and a smaller needle size. I hope this helps. there are other free patterns out there for children in the same weight of yarn…I would find one, and see what they suggest to cast on… and adjust from there.
      Happy Knitting! I hope this helped.
      -Victoria

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